Archive for May, 2007

My Mayabars

homemade chocolate Larabars

When it comes to sugar, I let nature be the guide. Instead of eating flavored yogurt with one tablespoon of added sugar, I’d rather eat plain yogurt with real fruit. For breakfast, I sweeten my oatmeal with raisins rather than maple syrup (maple syrup may have trace minerals, but you have to ingest a lot to get the benefits).

Although I love sweets, most of the stuff in stores is so sweet that it dehydrates my mouth. Case in point: Quaker chewy granola bars are 1/3 sugar by weight. There’s more sugar than fiber and protein combined. Their 25% Less Sugar line sounds like a great idea in theory, but it has calorie-free sweeteners. The solution is dialing down the overwhelming sweetness, not replacing it with lab-made “food!”

Larabar, on the other hand, makes excellent no-added-sugar snacks. By no added sugar, I don’t mean Splenda-fortified. They use the natural sugar of dates, nature’s sweetest fruit. White sugar isn’t evil per se, but it lacks the fiber, vitamins, and minerals of fruits.

Larabar used to make Mayabars (which I dubbed the best chocolate energy bar from the 2006 Fancy Food Show). They were fruit-sweetened chocolate bars with crunchy cacao nibs. Unfortunately, they revamped the line (now called Jocolat) and removed the nibs for a “smoother texture.” Bah, I want my essence of chocolate. The other problem is they’re so expensive at $1 each. Since their bars are essentially dried fruit and nuts, it’s not that hard to figure out the recipe.

Anna at Cookie Madness developed a formula: 1 part of dried fruit to 1/2 part of crunchies (nuts, oatmeal, puffed rice, cacao nibs, etc.) by weight. I added a little more cocoa for extra chocolatiness. It doesn’t have to be an exact recipe; you can adjust the ingredients by taste.

These are delicious chocolate bars that are actually good for you! You get a one serving of fruit with plenty of omega-3 fatty acids.

Naturally Sugar-Free Chocolate Bars

Adapted from Cookie Madness

Makes 6 bars or 24 “truffles”

2/3 cup walnuts
1 cup packed, pitted dates (about 24)
2 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch-processed
2 Tbsp cacao nibs or finely chopped dark chocolate

Toast the walnuts in a preheated 325F oven for 15 min., or until browned and fragrant. Stir the nuts half way through baking.

In a food processor, pulse the walnuts until they are pebble sized pieces. Set aside in a medium bowl.

Place the dates in the processor and pulse until coarsely chopped. Process until they’re smooth and form a ball around the blade. (At first, you will get lots of sticky pieces.) Add the cocoa and process until smooth.

In a bowl, knead the date mixture with the walnuts and cacao nibs until they stick together. If the mixture is too sticky, add more nuts or cacao nibs. If too dry, add a couple teaspoons of water.

On a cutting board lined with plastic wrap, shape the mixture into a long 1″-wide rectangle. Slice pieces with a sharp knife. Or, roll into 1″ balls. Store leftovers in the fridge.

Note: You can use natural or Dutch-processed cocoa, depending on your tastes. Natural cocoa has more complex flavors, but it is more acidic. I like to use it in cooked recipes. Dutch-processed cocoa has some the edge taken out, but you also loose other flavor elements. I like it for frostings and other raw uses. Generally, don’t swap one cocoa for another in baking recipes, since it can throw off the pH and affect the way cakes rise.

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Of note

Wow! Su Good Eats has been nominated for best food blog at the Blogger’s Choice Awards AND featured on the front page of Food Candy! If you like what you see, please vote for my blog.

featured on Food Candy

CulinaryCorps Trip
As noted before, I’m visiting New Orleans during the first week of June for a CulinaryCorps trip. It’s like Peace Corps, but for cooks. I’ve heard from visitors that it’s still pretty bad down there; there’s mold-infested houses, and mail can take a week. Some scheduled projects include a farmers market fundraiser, chocolate tasting with at-risk teens (wish me luck, I’ve never done a demo before), a shrimp boat tour and Emeril’s headquarters tour.

Through generous sponsorships, I only have to pay $300 for housing and most meals for the whole week! But future trips from Sept. 14-20 and Nov. 30-Dec. 6 could use more funds. I’d really appreciate it if you could donate any amount. If you were to do only one thing from this post, I’d rather have you donate than vote for this blog!

For more info, check out this CulinaryCorps video and recaps from the inaugural trip.

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Jacques Torres Chocolate Meetup

Jacques Torres Chocolate Haven tour

If it weren’t for some New York Times food writer, there wouldn’t have been a Jacques Torres chocolate shop in New York. In 2000, the famed pastry chef decided to make his own chocolate for quality control purposes. This was a huge undertaking, since there are only about 10 chocolate makers in the U.S., as opposed to chocolatiers (aka chocolate melters or re-packagers).

When Times writer Florence Fabricant got wind and asked Jacques when his store would open, he threw out a random date in December. He never intended to welcome visitors; he situated his factory in seedy DUMBO (”Down Under the Manhattan Bridge” in Brooklyn) because rent was cheap, and he could easily transport his wholesale chocolates to other storefronts. But when you have Ms. Fabricant on the phone, you do your best to impress.

During the construction process, Jacques literally had to babysit equipment that someone dumped on the sidewalk. He had asked for outside delivery because it was $1,000 cheaper, but it didn’t seem like a bargain as dusk approached. Jacques and about five other guys couldn’t get the machinery to budge. All he could think was, “Aye yay yay.” Relying on the “Power of 20,” he started pulling out $20 bills from his pocket.

“How many of these do I need to give so you can help me move my equipment?” Jacques asked strangers. He finally got a dolly/lift and learned to always accept in-store delivery.

Jacques renovated much of the store himself, armed with a pastry bag and an off-set spatula. He piped out cement (or caulk, or whatever constructors use) from the bag and smoothed it out, just like icing on a cake.

On “opening day,” Jacques placed some chocolates on display and hid an empty shoe box behind the counter as a makeshift cash register. After his first customer bought $20 in chocolate, Jacques did the happy dance. In the following months, customers thanked him for his charming shop. Jacques couldn’t understand why people were handing him money and thanking him for it.

In 2004, he opened a second storefront in Manhattan, Chocolate Haven. I visited on Saturday, during a private tour for the NY Metro Discover Chocolate Meetup.

Jacques Torres showing us behind the scenes in his factory
Jacques Torres showing us behind the scenes in his factory

candied oranges and other pastry equipment
Candied oranges are boiled in syrup for so long that all the moisture is replaced by sugar.

chocolate melter
Chocolate melter

candy wrapper

wrapping machine
This machine wraps more than one bar a second, if I recall correctly.

During the tour, Jacques talked about the history of his business and how to choose chocolate for eating. When he first made truffles, Jacques blended Valrhona Manjari and a 70% chocolate (probably Le Noir Amer). While the materials and technique were good, a pastry chef friend told him that the truffles tasted horrible. As noted in my chocolate database, both of these bars have strong fruity and spicy undertones. These peaks are fine for plain eating, but they’ll muddle the flavor of say, coffee truffles.

tasting chocolates
We compared the 60% house blend, the fruity Peru, and the earthy 72% Ghana.

For most of his truffles, Jacques now uses his own neutral 60% blend. This way, the said flavors explode before you taste the chocolate. For his passion fruit truffle though, he can get away with using fruity Peruvian chocolate.

As for when to use cocoa powder versus chocolate, Jacques only puts chocolate in his hot, frothy drink. Cocoa leaves the throat feeling dry, since it doesn’t have cocoa butter. Also, since cocoa powder is the unfinished ground bean, it doesn’t have as much flavor as chocolate that’s been conched (stirred) for several hours. That’s not what a low-fat baker wants to hear, but it has interesting implications. If a cake recipe calls for butter and chocolate, try keeping the chocolate and reducing the butter, rather than keeping the butter and swapping in cocoa powder.

One and a half years ago, I thought Jacques’ chocolates were very good for the money. Now I think they’re very good, period. Before, I felt that the presentation was good, but I could hardly distinguish one truffle flavoring from another. On Saturday, the Hearts of Passion went “POW!” and the Heavenly Hazelnut tasted like a European Reese’s peanut buttercup. The couvertures (base chocolate) also tasted stronger and had a thick melt. Jacques said he hasn’t changed his recipes, but he did refine his techniques. One secret was vacuuming all the air out of his ganache (truffle filling). That way, the aromas won’t evaporate away.

Jacques conducts free demos in his Chocolate Haven store every couple of months. It’s always worth a trip to meet this enthusiastic story teller and teacher. He’s like a kid in a grown up’s body. That’s what a lifetime of chocolate does to you!

Jacques Torres
Jacques savoring his own chocolate.

Jacques Torres Chocolate Haven
350 Hudson at King Street (1 block South of Houston)
New York, NY 10014
212-414-2462 phone

Jacques Torres DUMBO
66 Water Street
Brooklyn, NY 11201
718-875-9772 phone

Related posts:
Chocolate Haven Tour
Chocolate Christmas tree demo

Resources:
Video interviews from Epicurious
Chocolate with Jacques Torres (Food Network show)
Passion for Dessert with Jacques Torres (Food Network show)
Blue-Chip Cookies for the NY Times

Books:
Dessert CircusDessert Circus Dessert Circus at HomeDessert Circus at Home

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Free dessert events in NYC

Marilyn Monroe chocolate painting

Marilyn Monroe chocolate painting/Sid Chidiac

Chocolate Art Festival!

Australian artist Sid Chidiac invites you to the first annual Chocolates Art Festival!!!! Includes:

- Chocolate Fashion
- Chocalate Body Painting
- Edible Body Paintings
- Furniture Covered in Chocolates
- Chocolates Sculptures

There will be fashion shows everyday! 100% of proceeds are going to a local charity, God’s Love And We Deliver,
helping people with HIV/AIDS and other life-altering illnesses.

May 17-20, 2007

Festival Hours: Thursday, 6pm - 9pm Admission is $10
Saturday, 10am- 9pm
Sunday, 10am - 7pm
FREE Entry on The Weekend !!!

Location: St. Anthony’s Church at 154 Sullivan St. (near Houston) in the lower level.

For more info please visit www.chocolatepainter.com

Divine History of Chocolate

Soho20 Gallery in Chelsea (511 W 25th, ste 605) is presenting a solo exhibition of the work of Mariángeles Soto-Díaz.

“The Divine Geometry of Chocolate” is a series of abstract oil paintings inspired by Soto-Díaz’s love of chocolate, Soto-Díaz works with the emblems of abstraction, using grids, the drip, squares, geometry and color-fields to address the principle of pleasure. These luscious paintings do not illustrate chocolate so much as evoke anticipation of an exquisite sensory experience. In her words, these paintings delight in “parallels between the sensual materiality of chocolate and that of oil paint.”

As in her prior series using spices, Soto-Díaz also unsettles geometric abstraction with post-colonial perspectives. From its use in pre-Columbian civilizations as both currency and medicine, its seduction of Europe and role within the slave-driven history of cacao production, to the modern struggle to create sustainable cacao production standards, chocolate’s semi-bitter history is nothing but rich.

A native of delicious cacao-producing land of Venezuela, Soto-Díaz uses a blend of Latin American and North American traditions of abstraction, and while infusing them with a dose of conceptualism, she crafts her own brand of neo-modern painting. Soto-Díaz has exhibited internationally and her work is in many public and private collections. She holds an MFA from Claremont Graduate University, where she studied with Karl Benjamin, a central figure in the Hard Edge Abstraction movement.

“The Divine Geometry of Chocolate” runs from May 22nd to June 16th. Reception:Thurs., May 24, 5-7 pm
Soho20Chelsea Gallery is located on 511 West 25th Street, #605, NY, 10001, NY. Tues-Sat 12-6pm. Tel (212) 367-8994.

-Thanks to Clay Gordon of the NY Metro Chocolate Meetup group (and author of the forthcoming Discover Chocolate) for the chocolate listings.

Sticky Toffee Pudding ice cream

Free Ice Cream
Häagen-Dazs ice cream shops will give out free cones of its new flavors, Cinnamon Dulce de Leche and Sticky Toffee Pudding, on Tuesday, May 15, 4:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m., at any participating Häagen-Dazs location. - Thanks to The Food Section

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On May 14, CulinaryCorps Wants YOU to be the Judge

Picture: Metro Three T-shirts

There’s an old New Orleans saying: “You know it’s Monday when you’re eating red beans and rice.” On Sundays, ham would be served during a large dinner. Those ever frugal New Orleansians would save the bone and throw them in a pot of red beans the next day. After a hard days’ of work doing laundry, another hearty dinner would be ready.

This was just one culinary tradition that I learned after interviewing several New Orleans natives for an AP article on Mardi Gras. Any cuisine that has “BAM!” as its middle name may not seem impressive, but New Orleans food combines French, native American, African, Spanish and Italian influences with native ingredients (alligator, anyone?). Genius!

When I heard about CulinaryCorps, a charity that seeks to rebuild communities through food service, I couldn’t refuse their upcoming trip to NOLA. Through generous sponsorships and people like you (does this sound like a PBS ad?), I’ll head out on June 1-8. But we need more funds! That’s why you are cordially invited to be a guest judge at the…

FIRST ANNUAL RED BEANS AND RICE COMPETITION

TASTEFULLY BROUGHT TO YOU BY: CulinaryCorps and the staff, students and alumni of the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) WITH GENEROUS DONATIONS FROM: DBA New York, OXO, The Hillstone Group, Union Square Hospitality Group, and ICE. IN SUPPORT OF: The CulinaryCorps/ICE June Outreach Trip to New Orleans, LA.

Monday, May 14th, 6pm-8pm at DBA New York (41 First Avenue between 2 and 3 Streets).

$20 per person (tax-deductible). Includes a free beer, a vote in the competition and a chance to win some wicked cool door prizes like my very own macaroons and homemade Nutella, dinner for two at Houston’s and pickled okra.

All donations will go towards the CulinaryCorps/ICE outreach trip to New Orleans from June 1st-8th. Funds will be applied to equipment and supply donations to NOLA project partners, including: bulk coffee and equipment for Emergency Communities (a Lower 9th Ward feeding kitchen); crawfish boil equipment for Edible Schoolyard NOLA; and gardening tools for The Renaissance Project’s newly conceived 9th Ward Community Garden.

For those who cannot attend, CulinaryCorps has set up an online fundraising page through firstgiving.org. Donate today! And thank you!

In other random news, here’s two more articles I wrote (non-food related, sorry):

Tip Sheet: The 10 Worst Things to Say When Facing Arrest
Hmm, do you think if Paris followed this advice, she’d be in jail?

They Write Stuff
Liars, Liars. From Thomas Chatterton to James Frey, authors have achieved fame and fortune by faking it. Check out the list of the most notorious incidents.

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From the archives: Cheers for Churros

churros

Don’t forget, Cinco de Mayo is coming up! Why don’t you celebrate by making some churros?


Graphic: Candy Blog

Also, the deadline for commenting on the FDA’s proposed change on chocolate has been extended to June 25. If you don’t comment, they’ll be able to label Crisco and cocoa powder as “chocolate.” The proposal also has other sneaky add-ins, like substituting enzyme-modified egg yolks (what the heck is that?) in place of regular egg yolks. After poisonous dog food additives were traced to China, is the U.S. headed down the same road? Please tell the FDA to stop messing with our food.

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Caramel Challenge

caramel cupcakes

No one goes to a restaurant and says, “I’ll have a sugar-flavored cake.” Chocolate is a flavor. Vanilla is a flavor. Sugar is an ingredient, not a flavor. Saying you ate sugar-flavored dessert is as redundant as ordering pizza with cheese. Except when you burn sugar, then you’ve got sugar-flavored dessert. In that case, it’s called caramel.

As much as I and 99% of the world love chocolate, I use it as a crutch in baking. It’s very hard to make a bad dessert with chocolate, and I wonder if everyone’s tired of hearing me talk about and cook with it. To challenge myself, I decided to make a “plain” dessert. No spices, no fruit and most of all, no chocolate.

I’ve been intrigued by the traditional Southern caramel cake. Through cryptic hints, a native Mississippian (who I interviewed for the AP) told me that the icing is cooked in a cast iron skillet and enrobes some kind of butter cake. Pastry chef Shuna Fish Lydon’s caramel cake recipe seemed like a good place to start, but the process involved making caramel syrup and letting it cool before adding it to the batter and frosting. Plus, I didn’t feel like ingesting about three sticks of butter. I also didn’t have any powdered sugar for the frosting.

For the sake of simplicity, I made Golden Vanilla Cupcakes from Vegan Cupcakes Take Over the World. A touch of heart-healthy canola oil is beaten with sugar, soy milk and apple cider vinegar. The vinegar thickens the soy milk, tenderizes the cake and also adds flavor. Apple cider vinegar is a staple in the vegan kitchen; it makes soy products taste like sour cream. White vinegar also works, but it’s plain, just as canola oil is bland compared to olive oil.

Then you add your standard flour, salt, leavening agents and cornstarch (to mimic silky cake flour). What I liked about the recipe was its simplicity, and it wasn’t too sweet.

Unfortunately, the texture was more like a muffin. I’ve had several vegan baking flops like this banana bread, and I’m convinced that vegan baking will always fall behind. Part of the problem is no butter; aerating butter with sugar creates a delicate, even crumb like that in pound cake. Sarah Phillips, author of The Healthy Oven Baking Book, says you can cream oil with sugar and eggs (egg whites create a nice foam). But creaming oil and sugar just isn’t going to happen. Unless you resort to vegan butter substitute, vegan cakes are mixed via the muffin method. You just mix wet and dry ingredients, which yields irregular air pockets. The cake was very good for what it was, but it wasn’t good enough for me. I challenge you, readers, send me a vegan dessert recipe that behaves as well as a conventional one. If I find one I love, I’ll send you…something.

For the frosting, I started with Nigella Lawson’s brown-butter frosting from How to Be a Domestic Goddess. I deviated from the recipe by heating the sugar with the butter. I wanted to make the caramel flavor strong, and I needed to dissolve my granulated sugar anyway. (The original recipe calls for browning the butter alone and adding powdered sugar when it’s cool.) Del Posto pastry chef Nicole Kaplan says you should let caramel go to black death, but unless you’re experienced with sugar, I wouldn’t recommend going that far.

I stood in front of the stove, daring myself to let the caramel go darker: “It looks like honey. Now it’s like maple syrup. Ooh, now it’s mahogany. Keep going to black death, keep going…Oh no, it’s smoking. What is that smell?” I quickly took the pan off the heat and added soy milk to keep the whole thing from solidifying like a lollipop. I accidentally added too much milk and had to add more sugar to thicken it and temper the bitterness. Even though I used superfine sugar, my frosting was still a little grainy. So, use powdered sugar for the final adjustments.

Caramel Cupcakes

For the Golden Vanilla Cupcakes:
From Vegan Cupcakes Take Over the World by Isa Chandra Moskowitz
Makes 12

Ingredients:

1 cup soy milk
1 tsp apple cider vinegar
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp cornstarch
3/4 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1/3 cup canola oil
3/4 cup sugar
2 1/4 tsp vanilla extract

Directions:

  1. Preheat the oven to 350F and line muffin pan with cupcake liners.
  2. Whisk the soy milk and vinegar a measuring cup and set aside a few minutes to get good and curdled.
  3. In a large bowl, sift the flour, cornstarch, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Stir to combine.
  4. In a separate large bowl, beat together the soy milk mixture, oil, sugar and vanilla. Stir the dry ingredients and mix until no large lumps remain.
  5. Fill cupcake liners two-thirds full and bake for 20-22 minutes till done. Transfer to a cooling rack and let cool completely before frosting.

For the Caramel Frosting:
(Make at your own risk; this is a developing recipe)
Adapted from How to be a Domestic Goddess by Nigella Lawson
Frosts 12 cupcakes

Ingredients:

10 Tbsp unsalted butter (1 1/4 sticks)
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 tsp salt
2 Tbsp milk, plus a couple more Tbsp as needed (soy is fine)
1/3-2/3 cup powdered sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract

Directions:

  1. In a medium saucepan (preferably cast iron, because it contributes a deep flavor), combine the butter, sugar and salt over medium heat. Stir and cook until it turns mahogany, about 10-15 minutes. Remove the caramel from the heat and stir in 2 Tbsp of milk. Mixture will sputter and boil rapidly. Transfer the caramel to a bowl and let it cool for a couple hours or overnight.
  2. With an electric mixer, beat the caramel with powdered sugar and milk until the sweetness and texture are to your liking. The consistency should be thick and spreadable, like mayonnaise. Add the vanilla. Frost on cooled cakes.
  3. Refrigerate leftover frosting and spread on pancakes, waffles, biscuits and muffins.

Vegan Cupcakes Take Over the World: 75 Dairy-Free Recipes for Cupcakes that Rule How to Be a Domestic Goddess: Baking and the Art of Comfort Cooking

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