
What do you do with leftover frosting? If you have a little, you can lick it off your finger or spread some on toast (it’s so bad it’s good). But when I frost cakes, I have much more left, like a cup.
Chocolate frosting is a terrible thing to waste, so I turn it into truffles. Because the filling is too soft to handle at room temperature, I freeze it prior to dipping. When you eat the truffles at room temperature, the filling explodes in your mouth. It’s so good that you’ll want to make frosting just for truffles.
You can probably use any frosting as the base, but ones with a high percentage of chocolate will give you that melt-in-your-mouth quality. I used Cook’s Illustrated’s vegan ganache frosting. If you eat the truffles fresh, I swear no one will be able to detect the tofu. After a couple days, there is a slight spicy/beany flavor, but these are still some of the best truffles I’ve ever had.
These truffles require tempered chocolate, a process that involves heating, cooling and stirring chocolate. It’s not fun and virtually impossible to do without a thermometer. Fortunately, Alice Medrich developed a cheater’s method, where you melt the chocolate at a low temperature and forget about the technical stuff. It requires chocolate that’s already in temper (one that looks smooth and glossy, not one with white streaks because it’s been sitting in your car).
This Valentine’s Day, make these vegan truffles or the simplest cream truffles ever (That recipe goes like this: Heat up cream. Pour over chocolate. Eat.).
Vegan Chocolate Truffles
Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated and Alice Medrich’s Cookies and Brownies
For truffle filling:
10 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped (about 1 2/3 cup)
1/4 cup hot brewed coffee
2 tablespoons boiling water
1/4 cup light coconut milk
2 ounces silken tofu (recommended brand: Morinu)
For coating:
8 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped (about 1 1/3 cup)
2 ounces extra chocolate, in 1 or 2 chunks
Special equipment:
Electric mixer
Melon baller scoop or a sharp knife
2 large sheet pans
Heatproof glass bowl with a 2 1/2- to 3-quart capacity
Instant-read thermometer
Rubber spatula
Roasting pan or large baking pan at least 2 inches deep
Make filling:
- Place chocolate in a medium bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water. Pour hot coffee and boiling water over chips, then whisk until smooth. Whisk in coconut milk until incorporated.
- Process chocolate mixture and tofu in food processor until smooth and combined, 10 to 15 seconds, scraping down bowl once or twice.
- Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until cool and texture resembles firm cream cheese, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. (If mixture has chilled for longer and is very stiff, let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.)
- With an electric mixer, beat the mixture at high speed until fluffy, mousse-like, and the mixture forms medium stiff peaks, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes.
- Spread the mixture into a shallow pan and freeze until firm enough to scoop, at least 3 hours.
- Have ready a bowl of hot water, a melon baller, a sheet pan lined with wax paper, and the firm filling. Dip the melon baller into the water and wipe dry. Scoop out a scant 1-inch ball of the filling. Set on the prepared sheet and repeat with the remaining truffle base. If you don’t have a melon-baller, use a sharp knife to cut the base into little squares. Roll each piece between your fingers.
- Freeze the filling again until firm, about 1 hour.
Temper chocolate:
Tempering chocolate involves a sequence of heating, stirring, and cooling steps that stabilize the cocoa butter (fat) crystals and ensure that the chocolate dries hard and shiny. This tempering method works only if it is followed rigorously. You must start with a fresh new bar of solid chocolate: It was tempered by the manufacturer and is still in temper as long as it still looks glossy rather than gray or dull when you unwrap it. The trick is to melt the tempered chocolate so gently that the temper in the bar is not destroyed. This method cannot be used to temper chocolate that is already out of temper, having been melted to an unknown temperature, or that looks dull, mottled, or gray.
Choose good-tasting chocolate. Do not use chocolate chips or chocolate coatings, which are not truly chocolate. Do not work in a hot room. Do not allow any moisture to come in direct contact with the chocolate. Resist the temptation to hurry the process with extra heat, and don’t be too lazy to chop the chocolate as finely as directed. Make sure that the inside of the bowl, the spatula, and the thermometer stem are clean and dry. Whenever you take the temperature of the chocolate or the water, wipe the stem clean and dry with a piece of paper towel.
- Cut the 8 ounces of chocolate into pieces the size and shape of matchsticks or chop it into small pebble-size pieces no larger than peas (this can be done in batches in a food processor). Put the chocolate in the bowl and set the bowl in a roasting pan. Set the extra chocolate chunks aside.
- Pour hot tap water (120 to 130F) into the roasting pan until it reaches just above the level of the chocolate in the bowl. Let set for 5 to 6 minutes, or until the chocolate around the sides of the bowl is partially melted. Stir with a rubber spatula until the chocolate pieces are all sticky and are beginning to clump together. There will be barely enough melted chocolate to accomplish this.
- Remove the bowl of chocolate in the roasting pan and replenish with hot tap water. Let sit for 2 to 3 minutes. Begin stirring with the rubber spatula, turning the sticky mass over and over. Keep stirring (it may take 5 minutes), spreading the chocolate against the sides of the warm bowl and scraping it off as it melts. Do not replenish the hot water; it is still warm enough to do the job.
- When three quarters of the chocolate is melted, check its temperature. If it is less than its maximum temperature of 90F for dark chocolate (88F for milk chocolate or white chocolate), continue to stir. Remove the bowl from the warm water as soon as the chocolate reaches the maximum temperature, even if it is not entirely melted.
- Wipe the outside of the bowl dry. Stir the chocolate for at least 30 seconds, to equalize the temperature and melt any remaining pieces. The chocolate is now melted and still in temper. Use it for dipping immediately.
- If you accidentally exceed the maximum temperature, even by only a couple of degrees, the chocolate will probably be out of temper. Keep the bowl out of the roasting pan. Add the reserved chocolate chunks and stir until the temperature of the melted chocolate falls below the maximum (90F for dark chocolate, 88F for milk chocolate or white chocolate). The chunks will not be entirely melted, but the chocolate may be back in temper.
- To test it, smear a dab of chocolate, 1/16-inch thick, on a small piece of wax paper and put it in a cool place in the room or in the refrigerator. If the smear begins to dry and set within 5 minutes in a cool place or 3 minutes in the refrigerator, it is back in temper. Remove the chunks and refrigerate for 10 minutes, then reserve for reuse. Stir the chocolate thoroughly before dipping. If the smear still looks wet and shiny, continue to stir the chunks of chocolate in the bowl for 2 to 3 minutes more and test again. Repeat until the chocolate is in temper.
- Stir tempered chocolate from time to time as you work with it. If it cools or thickens too much, set the bowl in a pan of water only 2 degrees warmer than the maximum temperature for the chocolate (above), and stir until the chocolate is rewarmed. The chocolate will remain in temper so long as you do not let it exceed its maximum temperature.
Coat truffles:
- Line another sheet pan with wax paper.
- With your right hand (left if you are left-handed), fingers together and slightly cupped, scoop a large handful of melted chocolate into your left hand. Rub both hands together to coat them with a thick layer of melted chocolate. Try not to coat your fingers. Quickly pick up a frozen center with your left hand and roll it gently between your hands with a circular motion and as little pressure as possible, just long enough to cover it with a coating of chocolate. Add chocolate to your hands as necessary.
- Set the truffles on the other prepared sheet and let harden.
- Truffles keep at room temperature, in a well-sealed container, for one week.