Archive for March, 2007

Media Mentions: Sweet & Salty Craze, eBay Gourmet

Check out two new food articles I wrote!


Pastry chef Nicole Kaplan makes salted “s’mores.”

“The Rise of the Salt Tooth” – Chow.com

What does salt do for sugar, and who’s making salty desserts? (For the record, I’m not a fan of overtly salty desserts. Berthillon’s salted caramel ice cream in Paris is smoky and deep, but the salt gets in the way. Coppeneur makes complex, high cacao milk chocolate, but it’s a shame it tastes salty. Low-brow salty sweets, like the Take 5 candy bar, work though. The combination of salty pretzels, caramel, peanut butter and milk chocolate is addictive. Maybe I’m having a foodie backlash.)

Related links:
Soy Sauce Candied Nuts
Soy Sauce Sorbet
Olive Oil Chocolate Mousse
Potato Chip Cookies
The Way We Eat: Salt With a Deadly Weapon

“Whatever it is, you can eat it on eBay” – AP

The media’s been touching on mail-order desserts, from the difficulty of trusting something you can’t sample to professional chefs who’ve flocked to the Internet. For the AP, I wrote about homemade food that’s appearing on eBay. If you’ve ever wanted chokecherry jelly or handmade fudge from a congressman’s mom, you can get it on eBay. Buyer beware though…the samples I received were disappointing at best.

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Sugar High Friday #29: Hot Cacao

hot cacao

No, it’s not a typo. Cacao is not the same as cocoa, just as hot chocolate isn’t the same as hot cocoa. According to David Lebovitz (author of The Great Book of Chocolate), cacao refers to the bean, while cocoa refers to the powder after the bean is pulverized.

Cacao beans are like chocolate-flavored nuts. They are borderline savory and 100% addictive. Last year, Marc Boatwright, owner of Choctal, sent me a sample of cacao crunch (candied cacao nibs). This guy really knows his beans. Choctal claims to be the only maker of single-origin chocolate ice cream. Cacao tastes vastly different based on its origin, which is why Kalimantan and San Dominican chocolate ice cream are two distinct products. So, it was no surprise that each of Choctal’s nibs had subtle distinctions. Some tasted fermented, others tasted nutty, and still others tasted like toasted bread. It was like getting a variety pack of chocolate.

For this month’s Sugar High Friday dessert event, I substituted Choctal’s nibs in a hot chocolate/cocoa recipe. You won’t be able to grind the nibs into a fine powder, but you will infuse the milk with deep chocolate flavor. Only make this drink if you want something rustic; the sandy cacao bits are like “pulp.”

If you have candied nibs, just add two tablespoons per cup of milk. Otherwise, follow the amounts below. Look for nibs at Whole Foods or other fine retailers. For online ordering, I recommend Dagoba’s or Valrhona’s nibs from Lepicerie.com.

For more “raw chocolate” ideas, check out Chocolate in Context, which will round up recipes with nibs, beans, cocoa butter, untreated cocoa powder, and fresh cacao fruit on Friday.

Hot Cacao

Makes 1 serving

1 cup milk or unsweetened soy milk
1 1/2 Tablespoons cacao nibs
1 Tablespoon sugar

In the microwave, heat the milk on HIGH for two minutes. Combine the hot milk with the cacao and sugar in a blender. Blend for about 30 seconds, or until the cacao is sandy and the drink is frothy on top.
Variation: Cold milk can also be used.

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Me Meme

me
Sarah at Avenue Food asked me to participate in the “Five Things You Didn’t Know Me” meme, so here goes.

  1. I started this blog as a way to procrastinate from work, but it “backfired.” I’m a journalist by profession, and I’ve always wanted to do feature writing. Unfortunately, staff writers are far and few; most writers are freelancers who develop specialties, think of ideas, pitch editors and follow up. That sounded hard, so I started this blog to put off work. Then it dawned on me that I knew a lot about food, and I should try writing about it, professionally. When I pitched editors, I had a bunch of professional clips on court cases and movies, but nothing on food. So, I told them about my blog, and it led to assignments from Chow.com and the AP. To this day, I’m amazed at how well-received this blog has been.
  2. The three foods I missed most when I vacationed in Paris were whole grains, soy foods and peanut butter. Generally, the French style of eating is healthy (French Women Don’t Get Fat stresses lots of produce and good quality, portion-controlled desserts). Salads just taste better in Paris, and I had the best cake of my life at Pierre Herme. But the French aren’t into whole wheat bread. The first meal I ate after my week-long trip last year was a PB&J sandwich on whole wheat bread and a glass of soy milk. Heaven.
  3. My culinary pet peeve is untoasted nuts. Growing up, I always hated nuts. Then I learned that I’d only had bad nuts. Raw nuts are like soggy chunks of fat. When they’re toasted, they transform into something completely different. The fragrant oils release, and they become crunchy. Now I LOVE nuts, but only if they’re fresh and toasted. But in my book, even the best nuts are not allowed in chocolate chip cookies or brownies.
  4. I don’t like babies. They’re fussy, and they cry all the time. Everyone says I’ll change my mind when I get older, but that hasn’t happened. You know how people fawn over newborns? I could never understand the fuss, but I can’t resist dogs.
  5. Chocolate is my undoing. I can give up almost any food if I really wanted to. (I eat vegan most of the time for health and environmental reasons, but I’m a social omnivore.) If I don’t eat some form of chocolate almost every day, I’ll go crazy.

Now, I tag Kelli of Lovescool to participate!

More food related posts are to come! I’ve been backlogged.

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No knead to say more: 100% whole wheat bread

100% whole wheat no-knead bread

The last time I checked, more than 200 bloggers made Sullivan Street Bakery’s no-knead bread, one of the easiest things in the world. You mix flour, salt, yeast and water in a bowl and leave it out for about 18 hours. Then you shape the dough (which is as simple as folding an envelope) and let it rise for a couple hours more. After baking, you get a crusty, spongy bread that sops up olive oil like no other. The secret, as the New York Times article said, is letting time do the work.

Although a follow-up article said you can replace up to half the white flour with whole wheat flour, I’ve never seen specific instructions for how to make a 100% whole wheat loaf. In my opinion, it’s not whole wheat bread unless 100% of the flour is whole wheat. Otherwise, you get a paltry gram of extra fiber in each slice, which isn’t even worth it.

Whole wheat bread often sneaks in white flour because whole wheat is more difficult to work with. The bran is coarse and cuts through air pockets before they finish forming. Adding vital wheat gluten (protein) makes the dough “stronger” so it can rise. Also, whole wheat flour soaks up more liquid. The dough must be very soft, like a stiff muffin batter, so the yeast can move around to do its work. I’ve heard that whole wheat bread should have 100% hydration (a 1:1 ratio of flour and water by weight).

Armed with this knowledge, I added about an extra half cup of water and 1 1/2 Tbsp of vital wheat gluten. It works, it really works!

It is not as airy as the original recipe, but it passes as everyday sandwich bread. You can add more gluten (use up to 1 Tbsp for every cup of flour), but I don’t like the taste. It reminds me of a bad protein bar.

A couple notes: you do not need special instant yeast for the recipe. I read that NYC grocery stores ran out of instant yeast because people were baking like mad. To substitute regular active dry yeast, use 25% more and dissolve it in a little of the reserved water. Instant yeast is finer and more viable, which is why you can add it directly to flour and use less of it.

I had the greatest success with King Arthur’s hard red spring wheat flour. I usually buy what’s cheapest, but other brands like Whole Foods, Gold Medal and Hecker’s are more coarse. Remember, more coarse = less rise. Flour is so cheap anyway that you can afford to spend a couple more bucks on a good brand. It could make the difference between beautiful bread and a grassy tasting doorstop. On the downside, King Arthur isn’t as nutty-tasting as other brands, but it also isn’t sour and grassy (like Whole Foods).

Because the dough is so sticky, you need about an extra half cup of flour to dust your hands and shaping surface.

Also, because the whole wheat dough is wetter, you need about an extra 10 minutes in the oven.

If you don’t have a heavy oven-ready pot or don’t want such a flat loaf, you can use a standard loaf pan. Cover the top with an upside-down casserole dish or a tent of foil so it doesn’t brown too quickly. A trick to getting nice crust is to preheat a pan (not glass-it will shatter) on the oven floor and fill it with hot water during baking. I think it’s worth the extra step. Of course, if you have a covered pot, it will create its own steam. Why does steam create crisp crusts? I don’t know, but here’s an explanation on Peter Reinhart’s blog. I tried to get the best of both worlds (loaf shape and a hot covered pot) by putting a loaf pan inside a casserole dish and filling the gaps with water. The lid kept clanking as the water violently boiled. But it created an amazing brown top and permeated my apartment with the scent of caramelized bread for a day. However, the sides and bottom of my loaf didn’t brown because it was insulated by the extra glass. I also tried putting the whole apparatus on the bottom rack and turning the oven up to 500 F. The browning was better, but the crust set before the loaf had a chance to finish expanding.

No-Knead 100% Whole Wheat Bread

Adapted from the New York Times and Jim Lahey of Sullivan Street Bakery

Time: About 1 1/2 hours plus 14 to 20 hours rising

(The metric measurements are more accurate.)

3 cups (430 grams) whole wheat flour, plus 1/4-1/2 cup more for dusting
1/4 teaspoon (1 gram) instant yeast (or 1/4 plus 1/16 teaspoon active dry yeast*)
1 1/4 teaspoons (8 grams) salt
1 1/2 tablespoons vital wheat gluten
2 cups minus 1 tablespoon (430 grams) water
Cornmeal or wheat bran as needed

1. In a large bowl combine flour, instant yeast, salt and vital wheat gluten. Add 1 1/2 cups water and stir until blended. Keep adding water until the dough is shaggy and sticky, like a stiff muffin batter. It should not be so wet that it’s pourable. You will probably use all of the water, but different brands of flour are more absorbent. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest at least 12 hours, preferably 18, at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees.

2. Dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Liberally flour a work surface and place dough on it; sprinkle it with more flour and fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest about 15 minutes.

3. Using just enough flour to keep dough from sticking to work surface or to your fingers, gently and quickly shape dough into a ball. Generously coat a cotton towel (not terry cloth) with flour, wheat bran or cornmeal; put dough seam side down on towel and dust with more flour, bran or cornmeal. Cover with another cotton towel and let rise for about 2 hours. When it is ready, dough will be more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger.

4. At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (cast iron, enamel, Pyrex or ceramic) in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, carefully remove pot from oven. Slide your hand under towel and turn dough over into pot, seam side up; it may look like a mess, but that is O.K. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned. Cool on a rack.

Yield: One 1½-pound loaf.

*If substituting active dry yeast, let it proof in 1/4 cup of lukewarm water (reserved from the total water) for 10 minutes. Add the yeast with the rest of the water when mixing it in the dough.

Links: Video of Martha Stewart jumping on the bandwagon and making the bread.

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Real Pan Pizza

cast iron skillet pizza

Sur la Table and the Food Network want you to believe that you need a $200 KitchenAid stand mixer or Le Crueset pan to be a serious cook. In reality, you only need $10 to buy one of the most durable and versatile pieces of cookware: the cast iron skillet. It is nonstick (no need to worry about Teflon poisoning), browns evenly and can go from the stove to the oven. I’ve had great success using it for pancakes, chicken with 40 cloves of garlic (you get an amazing crust and sweet, creamy garlic), tarte tatin and BREAD.

The secret to crusty artisan-style bread is baking on a pizza stone. Of course, it’s a huge investment. You can get around it by buying a ceramic tile from a hardware store, but what else are you going to use that tile for? Because of cast iron’s ability to hold in heat, it makes beautiful brown crusts. Plus, you can use it as a griddle, casserole dish, frying pan and bakeware.

Before Sullivan Street Bakery revealed its wildly popular no-knead bread recipe (it’s baked in a cast iron pot) and Mario Batali sold cast iron pizza pans, I made cast iron skillet-pizza, two years ago. Honest, look at the file information in the photos!

charred pizza crust

By baking in cast iron, you get charred crusts that’s the stuff of New York legends. You don’t need a pizza stone. You don’t need a coal-fired oven. Just start with your favorite pizza crust recipe and preheat the oven with the pan inside. Then, generously dust a pizza peel or cutting board with cornmeal or rice flour. Shape your crust on the board and add the toppings. When ready, slide the crust into the smoking hot pan and bake as directed.

To reheat leftover pizza, cover it any pan (cast iron or not) over low heat for 5-10 minutes, or until the crust comes back to life and the cheese is melted. Even Domino’s tastes divine this way.

Resources:

How to care for a cast iron skillet
Note that you’re not supposed to wash it, which may be good or bad, depending on how much you like clean up. Also, you can’t cook acidic foods like tomatoes in it. They are very heavy too, but that means that they practically last forever.

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Quick Bites: Wii Love Free Yogurt Gelato

yolato
Photo: Mark Peterson/New York Magazine

Yolato, a new store selling yogurt gelato, is offering two chances for free dessert. Sign up to receive news and get a coupon for a free regular-sized yolato at their West Village location. Or stop by their new Upper West Side store on March  9 and 10 14 for a taste. It should be delicious, since gelato is like ice cream amplified to the nth degree, and real frozen yogurt is making a comeback in New York. For the record, that L.A. transplant, Pinkberry, tastes like grainy frozen ice milk because they reportedly use 7-UP.

Yolato
120 Macdougal St., New York, NY 10012
nr. Bleecker St.
212-228-6303
map

2286 Broadway
nr. 82nd St.

In other small news, check out Avenue Food, an NYC blog with street credibility. Last Saturday, Sarah hosted a Wine, Cheese and Wii Party. I don’t know what was better: the crusty mac and cheese, gruyere/caramelized onion pizza or the workout on the Wii. Sarah posted videos of us playing (it’s more entertaining watching the player than the TV screen itself). Unfortunately, the video of me had some technical difficulties.

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